A retreat to 12,000 feet

Why is it so hot in Texas… ALL THE TIME! No point in arguing this fact any longer… I’m just going to go to Colorado!


KEYSTONE, COLORADO

Summer was a little rough on the Simmons family this year. Weddings, youth trips, retreats, and MOVING! Our biggest adventure this summer has been moving downtown to the West 6th district which is equal parts awesome and annoying (think loud noises and bad parking). We are loving the convenience of walking to work and school and experiencing a low-carbon life. You can’t call me a hippie because I’m a little too yupster, but going a whole week without using a car is pretty awesome.File Aug 30, 17 48 54 

Last week I started grad school at UT Austin in the Family Nurse Practitioner program. I am currently working as a floor nurse in a Bone Marrow Transplant unit and hope to continue my career as an advanced practice nurse in oncology, but I digress. Mike and I never got a chance to spend quality time together this summer and decided to take a last minute trip to one of my favorite places to both escape the heat and to slow down.


Wednesday August 26, 2015:The majority of today was engrossed with my first day of school. Three hours of advanced pathophysiology, followed by four hours of textbook reading, ending with three hours of healthcare research; what have I gotten myself into? Finally, Mike picked me up from 1710 Red River Street and whisked us off to the airport for a late flight into Denver. After an uneventful car rental and drive to our condo, we settled in for much needed good night of sleep.


Thursday August 27, 2015: Not sure what time it is right now, but I don’t really care. Sleeping in on “Saturday” is the best! We finally made it out the door and grabbed brunch at Haywood Cafe. This vintage wood-paneled cafe was a brisk one mile walk from our front door and served an eclectic group of both locals and tourists. It’s self-proclaimed “Best Breakfast in Keystone” was not at all inaccurate. If you will indulge my painfully touristy pictures of my food, you may find that I have some new brunch recipes to add to my repertoire.

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“Sexy Mexi Benny” Southwestern Eggs Benedict with home fries // BBQ Pork Benny on cornbread with cheesy grits

Fortunately and unfortunately it rained most of today. The nice part was we had an awesome excuse to hang out at our beautiful condo and take in the mountain views and fresh air. We found this cute rental through AirB&B – the vacation home of Mike and Christina. We received a gracious welcome from our hosts of a bottle of wine and hand written postcard. It was apparent that this couple cares for their guests and put great thought into creating a modern, yet homey atmosphere. For those of you back in Texas reading this, I have no shame boasting in the glorious 50 degree weather here! I’m currently sitting on the couch wearing my comfy sweater and wool socks while sipping on hot tea, gazing at Keystone Mountain with the floor-to-ceiling windows flung open. (insert rosy-cheeked emoticon)

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After the weather cleared up, we took another walk along the trail to the Keystone Resort for dinner at Bighorn Bistro & Bar. The restaurant was quaintly positioned on a man-made pond filled with ducks and it’s own resident beaver. He could be seen swimming laps with large tree limbs in his mouth to renovate his home. The intimate resort community reminded me of old sleepy ski towns pictured in movies in the early 60s.

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Noticing a beautiful two-story fireplace at the entrance to the restaurant, we decided to stick around for hot cocoa and apple cider by the fire (yes, in August!) Little did we know we had invited ourselves into a new found group of friends. Brad, the restaurant manager, was hosting a launch party for his relative, Andy aka Whiskey, who is a star in the new History Channel show Power & Ice, a gripping tale of the men who build and maintain the power lines in Alaska. If you decide to watch the show, Andy willing admits he is as wild and brash in real life as he is portrayed on the show. Brad’s wife, Stacy and son (12 months old) entertained us with cheerio throwing and toppling over. Stacy’s best friend Cacey with husband Steve and daughter (16 months old) also shared the fire with us, showing off her baby doll and blankey. From family to football, girl talk to man things, we shared a few hours of laughs and a budding acquaintanceship. Steve is a barber and owns his own shop, The Gentlemen’s Barbershop in Dillon just down the road (spoiler alert – skip ahead to Saturday when Mike got a haircut at an authentic barbershop). Cacey introduced us to Juice Plus, her work-from-home job selling fruit and veggie supplements and, Stacy and I bonded over stories of life in the hospitality industry. We enjoyed getting to know each of these ridiculously fun, kind, and friendly people. Hopefully our lives will cross paths again soon!


Friday August 28, 2015: So this trip was supposed to be about slowing down and relaxing before this fall takes over our lives… but y’all know me! At the recommendation of Steve and Cacey, we set out to hike Torrey’s & Gray’s peaks, two 14,000 ft mountains, affectionally known as a pair of 14ers. After a delicious breakfast at Einstein’s – have you tried their new Cinnamon Toast or French Toast breakfast sandwiches, they’re amazing- we set out for our ambitious hike. If you click on the link for Torrey’s & Gray’s Peaks you will find great information from preparing for the climb to step-by-step driving directions to the trail. Being overly cautious, law-abiding noobs, we obeyed the signs which said “high-clearance vehicle only” and parked our adorable little Hyundai at the base of the mountain along I-70 not wishing to damage the sparkly rental car… unfortunately we didn’t know that the official trail head didn’t begin for another THREE miles straight uphill. After an hour and twenty minutes hiking just to get to the trail head, we were less than enthusiastic about our abilities to summit today. Nonetheless, we set out for the next three mile hike/3000 vertical foot climb.

File Aug 30, 20 01 20 post three miles climbing up the road… setting out to attempt Gray’s & Torrey’sFile Aug 30, 20 01 53File Aug 30, 20 01 31File Aug 30, 20 02 39

It was my favorite kind of weather today, 50 degrees and comfortable in the sunshine but chilly in the shade. As we passed from protected sections to exposed faces of the trail we added and shed several layers – thank the Lord for Hot Chilly’s thermal wear. Along the way we spotted a few native creatures including chipmunks, pika, and marmots. Since it was a Friday there wasn’t too much traffic on the trail. After a very heartfelt effort and hours of huffing the cold thin air, we made it to approximately 13,000 feet and decided to call it a day knowing we had to hike six miles back down… and yet it is always surprising how much faster the descent is.

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After we made it down the official start of the trail head, we set off to descend another three miles down the road to our car. Fortunately, Carrie, a 50-something woman whom we had acquainted on the trail offered us a ride down to the base. Her sweet dog Molly Brown, a spry copper hound-mix snuggled up next to me in the back seat. During that short twenty minute drive, we learned that Carrie is pretty much the realization of my travel goals. She has already hiked Machu Picchu and Mt. Kilimanjaro and is currently hiking Colorado 14ers in preparation for her trip to Nepal to hike to Everest Base Camp in the Himalayan Mountains… the exact trip Mike and I were going to go on in May except for the earthquake. I’m thankful to have met this kind and generous woman and for her inspiration to my fitness/travel goals!File Aug 30, 20 55 13

Finishing up our semi-successful Gray’s & Torrey’s climb


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hanging around River Run Village at Keystone before heading to dinnerFile Aug 30, 20 54 39

Tonight was the only activity on this trip that I actually planned in advance and was excitedly looking forward to – dinner at Keystone Ranch Restaurant. This fascinating log cabin was built in the 1930s for a young couple on the family ranch. It is tucked back in Keystone valley behind Lake Dillon on what is now a beautiful golf course. The main reason I wanted to visit this restaurant was to experience a family tradition shared by my Zimmermann grandparents, parents, aunts and uncles. My dad’s family grew up skiing and frequented most of the now famous ski resorts back in the 70s including Aspen Snowmass, Beaver Creek, Keystone, Breckenridge, Telluride, Arapahoe, and many more. They almost always based in Keystone and soon discovered the hidden gem, Keystone Ranch. My parents had been dating since their junior year of college at the University of Texas and graduated in 1983. After too many months long distance, my mom moved back to Austin where my dad was working and gave him the marriage ultimatum (gotta love the Tucker-strong-will meets Zimmermann-stubbornness). Needless to say, my dad invited my mom on another Zimmermann family vacation to their favorite sleepy ski town, Keystone. The gushing romantic that he is, my dad proposed on top of a “double-black diamond run at Beaver Creek.” Thankfully she said yes! The pragmatist that he is, my dad wouldn’t put the ring on her finger right away for fear he would drop it in the snow. My parents had a private dinner to celebrate their anniversary, but on every ski trip they headed over to Keystone Ranch to keep the tradition my grandparents had started with their family! Even thirty years later, it was special for Mike and I to get to carry on a piece of their history.

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Spotted a momma moose and her two calves on our way to Keystone Ranch RestaurantFile Aug 30, 20 08 52File Aug 30, 20 09 14

the food was so good I forgot to snap pics of the rest of the courses

As a sort of delayed anniversary vacation, we indulged in the four course chef’s dinner. I had a seared scallop to start and a wild game kettle stew, followed by the sage-pesto venison loin. Mike had the ginger beer brined quail and golden potato soup, followed by the Imperial Ranch Wagyu N.Y. Strip. The house treated us to a glass of champagne in honor of our recent second wedding anniversary on August 17th. It was painful to have self control when presented with the house made bread with pomegranate-habanero jam, but we were sufficiently satisfied by the end of dinner. As part of a special tradition at the Ranch, our server Mike, invited us to the family living room in the original section of the house to enjoy our dessert and coffee. The living room is filled with several seating areas of vintage couches and wingback chairs surrounding a two-story fire place (are you noticing a trend in magnificent fireplaces). The fire place had been a wedding gift to the bride and groom and is adorned with an impressive 10 point Elk above the mantle. I had the Ranch Signature Gran Marnier Souffle with a pistachio creme anglaise (the dessert my parents had shared on their engagement night) and Mike had the Honey Lavender Creme Brûlée with biscotti. The pastry chef artfully presented us with a chocolate-scripted “Happy Anniversary” plate complete with two candles; time seemed to stop as we sipped coffee over candle light to end the night. I have never experienced such customer service as we did that night. From the host to the wait staff to the assistants who kept our water glasses more than 3/4s filled to the Chef and his crew, we truly felt like we had been invited into a friend’s home, completely unaware of life surging on around us.                                File Aug 30, 20 10 28 File Aug 30, 20 09 42 File Aug 30, 20 10 14                                File Aug 30, 20 09 29File Aug 30, 20 12 13

In case we hadn’t eaten enough already that night, the chef sent us home with two delicate house-made chocolate truffles dusted with himalayan salt – it was the icing on the cake so to speak in light of our previous conversation with Carrie earlier that day.

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Saturday August 29, 2015: Today we woke up leisurely and packed up to leave. I know I already talked about how amazing our condo was (Thanks again Mike & Christina) but I wanted to reiterate what a great experience we had in this home-away-from-home! We grabbed a quick bite of brunch at a the Spoon Cafe in River Run Village at the base of Keystone Mt. We both ate the “Mountain Man” plate complete with scrambled eggs, sausage patty, bacon, toast AND home fries. No, we weren’t that hungry, but the couple sitting next to us talked us into it. Yes, it was worth it! Cameron, our server, was awesome and spent some time swapping stories with us about local activities, favorite hikes, and trips abroad. After perusing the shops of the village we found a cute glass christmas ornament with a summer keystone vista painted on the inside of the glass. Before leaving we stopped by The Gentlemen’s Barber Shop for Mike to get a haircut with Steve. While I not-so-secretly wish Mike could pull of a kickin’ pompadour, Steve showed Mike a different way to manage his cute cow-licks and sent him away more dapper than dan.

As I write the final touches of this post on my couch at home, I am thankful to have had the chance to disconnect from our busy lives and to reconnect with one another. It was refreshing not only physically, but mentally and spiritually as well. Mike and I were able to spend quality time praying over this next semester for each other, for our marriage, and for our community. We found some clarity in decisions we’ve been pondering for awhile and renewed fervor to serve and pray for the friends and students God has placed in our lives. Our adventures may be a little less glamorous over the next two years, but we are still enjoying this journey known as Hike & Mighty!

A weekend in the wild, wild west: Sedona, Arizona

Hiking the Red Rocks of Sedona: May 28 – 31, 2015

Mike and I had planned to be in Nepal hiking the Himalayan mountains during this time, but unfortunately there was an awful earthquake and aftershock two weeks before our trip. Naturally our trip was cancelled and we began the long process of dealing with travel insurance. Since both of us already had the vacation time approved, we decided to take a quick trip to this isolated desert town to check out the hiking. My parents, brother, and his family had already been in the past year and raved about the beauty of the area, so we decided to check it out.

I am going to let the pictures do most of the talking, but long story short, check out Broken Arrow Trail and surrounding trails! I highly suggest a day trip to Sedona if you have a layover in Phoenix for a day. Hiking gear/boots not required, simply comfortable clothes, a jacket, and plenty of water!



File Jul 21, 14 50 29File Jul 21, 14 50 54  7AM flight to Phoenix, curiously we arrived at 7AM local time. Drove 1.5 hours to SedonaFile Jul 21, 14 57 52    File Jul 21, 14 55 59 Views of the red rocks on our drive in   File Jul 21, 14 54 09 File Jul 21, 14 53 14File Jul 21, 14 53 48  File Jul 21, 14 52 13Brunch at Red Rock Cafe, a local favorite. It was so good we went back the next morning to get their famous giant cinnamon roll after our sunrise hike to Coffee Pot Rock.


Hiking Broken Arrow Trail 

File Jul 21, 13 00 43File Jul 21, 12 51 10Start of trail head                                                                                   File Jul 21, 13 00 20 File Jul 21, 12 59 51  File Jul 21, 12 58 09File Jul 21, 12 57 34 Agave parryi (Century Plant) // dead wood // lichens grown near a Cairn // resilient treeFile Jul 21, 12 56 47Views of distant Munds Mountain Wilderness                            File Jul 21, 12 52 11  File Jul 21, 12 50 23  File Jul 21, 12 58 58Devil’s Dining Room (sink hole-100ft deep)  //  trail markers   //   tiny Cairns File Jul 21, 12 55 20File Jul 21, 12 53 33File Jul 21, 12 53 59File Jul 21, 12 54 43File Jul 21, 12 49 39


 Dinner at the famed Elote Cafe

File Jul 21, 15 43 18File Jul 21, 15 44 16 File Jul 21, 15 43 58File Jul 21, 13 01 17File Jul 21, 13 01 58 File Jul 21, 13 01 38    Green Chile Enchiladas // Pulled Chicken Mole Enchiladas



Sunrise summit up Sugar Loaf to catch an early morning look of Coffee Pot RockFile Jul 21, 13 08 51Setting out on the Tea Cup trail with views of Thunder MountainFile Jul 21, 14 20 20East Turn with views of Thunder Mountain (left) and Coffee Pot Rock formations (Right)  File Jul 21, 14 28 06File Jul 21, 13 02 23File Jul 21, 13 07 06File Jul 21, 14 27 28 Streets leading to Sugar Loaf/TeacupTrail Heads // topographical map  // desert bloomsFile Jul 21, 14 21 50File Jul 21, 14 22 14Summiting Sugar Loaf. Cheering his victory while I sing “The Circle of Life” from Lion KingFile Jul 21, 14 24 17The sunrise was totally worth getting up early!File Jul 21, 14 23 59See the formation on the far right – it looks like an old camp percolatorFile Jul 21, 14 27 07File Jul 21, 14 25 33Enjoyed some refreshing quiet time and reflection in the cool of the morningFile Jul 21, 14 29 20File Jul 21, 14 29 36Woodstock on top of sleeping Snoopy // Snoopy’s nose/ears (left) and his belly/feet (right)


 Riding a Pink Jeep Tour through Diamond Back Gulch

 File Jul 21, 12 29 44File Jul 21, 12 36 46   File Jul 21, 12 34 57Our Driver     //        Fossil imprints of coral on top of a mountain         //     Old private landFile Jul 21, 12 33 47File Jul 21, 12 34 18Watching an afternoon rain shower sweep across the distant plain  File Jul 21, 12 32 03File Jul 21, 12 32 44Three Camels climbing the hill                    //                    One ^ Two ^ Three^     File Jul 21, 12 29 19File Jul 21, 14 28 52


Sunset Summit up Cathedral Rock

File Jul 21, 12 38 41First landing on the climb up. Wire cylinders filled with rocks roughly mark the path    File Jul 21, 12 47 07File Jul 21, 12 46 03File Jul 21, 12 44 07File Jul 21, 12 47 38“End of Trail” //  “Organ Pipes” // hardy vegetation  // gazing from back of Cathedral Rock File Jul 21, 12 45 14File Jul 21, 12 43 01File Jul 21, 12 42 33File Jul 21, 12 37 38Evening fades as we make our descent revealing deeper blues and a rising moon



 Last morning shopping in Uptown Sedona 

File Jul 21, 14 31 08File Jul 21, 14 29 56File Jul 21, 14 33 51Local art education center // wrought iron statue & mural // Local shop decorFile Jul 21, 14 32 57


Last morning hike to Bell Rock with views of Courthouse Butte

File Jul 21, 14 47 58File Jul 21, 14 39 18File Jul 21, 14 46 53File Jul 21, 14 40 41Courthouse ButteFile Jul 21, 14 46 29 File Jul 21, 14 45 08File Jul 21, 14 43 46File Jul 21, 14 44 47File Jul 21, 14 37 26File Jul 21, 14 42 31Until next time, Sedona!                     

A Mediterranean Excursion – Final Chapter

Our most recent travels in September 2014 took us to the Mediterranean to explore four distinct yet exquisite locales: Istanbul, Turkey; Mykonos, Santorini, & Athens, Greece


September 14, 2014: Athens, Greece

The majority of this gorgeous Sunday was spent lounging on the beaches of Santorini (for full details – see A Mediterranean Excursion – part 3). We caught a late plane out of Santorini and arrived in the land of myth and legend. At the advice of a friend, who happens to be much more seasoned traveler, we used a private driver through Spiros Taxi Tours. Our driver did an awesome job welcoming us to the city and giving us great recommendations for our stay. We checked in to Hotel Periscope in the business district just north of the National Gardens. All tucked in after a restful day, we tackled Athens in the morning!


September 15, 2014: National Gardens, Hellenic Parliament, Temple of Zeus, Arch of Hadrian, Acropolis & Parthenon

Athens can be difficult to describe; the juxtaposition of modern and ancient both confuses and delights the eye. Seeing the magnitude and beauty of these buildings, which have withstood centuries somehow, saddens me when I compare it to the disposable nature of American society. Culture and legacy are passed down, not just for two to three generations, but for millennia. Walking through a bustling city can be tiring and overwhelming, so we left most of our exploring until the evening when most of the tourists were done promenading.

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The Acropolis & Parthenon

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It was definitely worth it to shoot the Parthenon in the setting sun! Not only did the pictures turn out much better, it was definitely cooler and more enjoyable to explore the ruins without flocks of tourists.

September 16, 2014: Panathenaic Olympic stadium, National University and Library of Athens, National Archaeological Museum of Athens

The Panathenaic Stadium held both the ancient and modern olympic games as we know them. The stadium was built of marble in 329 B.C. and later renovated for the first modern day olympics in the summer of 1896. The Olympic Torch Relay starts here at the lighting ceremony and is carried by athletes all around the world to the next games.

IMG_2119 IMG_2121 IMG_2125Seats of Honor                 Hair pin turns of the traditional track                  Athlete’s tunnel

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(1) Lamp stand to light the olympic torches. (2-3) Faces of a young, eager athlete and old, wise man. This statue symbolizes the soul of a man, looking forward with the vitality of youth and looking backward with the solemnity of wisdom.

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The National University of AthensIMG_2152 IMG_2153 IMG_2156IMG_2154

(Statues) Plato sits to the left and Socrates to the right.

(Center) A marble lamp stand with the symbol of Athena, an owl signifying wisdom, lights the paths from the street up to the grand entrance. Athens gets its name from the goddess Athena. Legend states that the first King of Athens searched for a patron deity to support the city. Both Poseidon and Athena responded to the challenge, desiring to become the keeper of the city.  Hoping to prevent a war among the gods, Athena suggested a contest: each was to present their best gift to the city and the champion would win the city. Poseidon struck the ground with his trident and created a massive body of water called Erekhtheis. Naturally, the water was salty, as were all the waters Poseidon controlled, and the people were dismayed. Next, Athena buried a small object in the soil which soon grew into a massive olive tree. This tree produced olives for eating, oil for cooking and lamps, and wood for ships. Her gift was clearly better and she became the protector of the city and became known as Athenapolis. Her wisdom and foresight was best represented in the Owl which is displayed prominently throughout the city.IMG_2155 (above) Iconic columns line the vaulted roof with the traditional triangular pediment. (below) ceiling above the portico at the entrance to the universityIMG_2165IMG_2159

Great lecture hall at the entrance to the university. (below) oil lamp stand and seating

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Entrance to the National Library. Unfortunately we weren’t allowed to take any pictures inside the building as it is still in use. The main level had a multi-story library with large, ornate brass staircases and scaffolding lining the upper levels. The center of the library housed several heavy wooden tables and desks for reading the ancient tomes housed there. A librarian was kind enough to give us a short history lesson and an index card full of useful phrases to get around Greece.

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The National Archaeological Museum was established in the late 1800s encompassing 8,000 sq meters of space. It permanently houses five periods of art, the Prehistoric Collection (1050-6th century B.C. Neolithic, Cycladic, Mycenaean), the Sculptures Collection (7th – 5th centuries B.C.), the Vase and Minor objects & Stathatos Collections (11th century B.C. to Roman Period), and the Metallurgy Collection, a sampling of which you will see photographed below.IMG_2174 The Death Mask of Agamemnon

IMG_2175 IMG_2177 IMG_2178 Mycenaean Fresco of an elaborately dressed women in a procession from the Tiryn Palace 1300 B.C.

IMG_2193IMG_2181(left) Minoan Fresco children boxing, fresco found in Fira, Santorini, Greece. (right) Mycenaean Fresco of a woman holding snakes

IMG_2186 IMG_2189“first piggy bank” and traditional vase depicting a battle scene

IMG_2188  IMG_2190 Minotaur bust and Headless statue of Aspasia Annia Regilla, the wife of Herodes Atticus.     IMG_2197sleeping Maenid found on the southern side of the Athenian Acropolis, 117-138 A.D.

September 17, 2014: living like locals and dinner at New Hotel

AWe really enjoyed exploring the narrow market street surrounding the acropolis and enjoyed shopping and munching our way through town. In the late afternoon we took one more climb up Mars Hill, a marble rock that has worn smooth, making it a rather dangerous climb. The 360 degree views were totally worth it!photo 147 On our way to dinner we stopped in Syntagma Square, a main plaza across from the Parliament building. We spotted locals passing the evening sipping espresso or licking gelato, high school boys break dancing and skate boarding, and businessmen walking hurriedly to the subway. (I am wearing the flame proof black and blue silk shawl I bartered for in Turkey earlier on our trip). The weather was overall quite comfortable; high 80s during the day and low 60s at night.

photo 152Enjoying dinner at the New Art Lounge rooftop restaurant and bar at New Hotel, a Michelin Star restaurant.

September 18, 2015: Flying back to Istanbul, Turkey for one last night

September 19, 2015: Flying back to George Bush Intercontinental Airport, Houston, Texas

4 5        My sleep diva getting his beauty rest // Almost home! (wearing my new earrings)

A Mediterranean Excursion – part 3

Our most recent travels in September 2014 took us to the Mediterranean to explore four distinct yet exquisite locales: Istanbul, Turkey; Mykonos, Santorini, & Athens, Greece


September 12, 2014:

Welcome to Fira, Santorini, Greece!

Caldera, Santorini, Greece

Words cannot describe the grandeur of this place, but I will do my best to give you a tiny glimpse into the beauty of this ancient island town.

Map of Santorini

I found this little map on a sign along our trek to Oia (pronounced Ee-uh) one day.

Santorini or Thira is now the large crescent shaped island with a few small islands forming a ring around an active volcano. Santorini used to be a very large flat island until an eruption several thousand years ago created these idyllic cliffs or caldera to the east and a calm harbor in the center. It is a widely held sentiment on the island that the City of Atlantis lay submerged in the harbor after the volcanic eruption and remains yet to be found.

After our ferry landed in Athinios Port, or the new port, we caught a cab northbound to Fira (note large red dot) where we stayed in a dive-y studio on the caldera. There’s a reason most cruise ships only stop for the day in Santorini – it’s quite expensive to spend the night. Aside from the sub-optimal quarters we enjoyed on this island, the radiant sunsets off our balcony each night and serene mornings over looking the harbor were well worth the pretty pennies.

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At the recommendation of our hotel manager, we partook in a quintessential dinner on the caldera at sunset. We indulged in a beautiful greek salad and shared the lamb stew. During our travels, we tried out best to sample native wines and really enjoyed a red blend from Argyros Estate. The century-old family-run vineyard grows grape varietals native to Santorini which have adapted well to the arid volcanic soil.

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September 13, 2014: Good morning, Santorini!

Good morning, SantoriniGood morning, Santorini Good morning, Santorini

I wish words could describe and pictures could express our favorite part of the entire trip: a 4 hour trek from Fira to Oia! If you refer to the above map you will see Oia at the north point of the island. There is an ancient path that traverses the caldera along the north ridge to Oia. While some of the trail is a cobblestone path, the majority of the trail is natural rock and gravel. We embarked on this “epic” trek at 8:00am (yes, jet lag still made our bodies capable of waking up “early”) on possibly the most perfect day you could ask for: a crisp 60 degrees with the morning sun just barely cresting over the top of the island. I reveled in the romantic moments of watching the island come to life; I almost felt like I was intruding on an intimate encounter as the sun brought the royal blue and teal waters, green vegetation, and colorful flowers to life. Even the rocks and volcano appeared to be yawning as they woke up.

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On our way to Oia we crossed paths with a few over-achiever-runners but rarely shared the way with but a few passers-by. We walked in silence with nature, simply soaking up the beauty of the world around us.

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Once we finally reached Oia we stumbled through some small shops and art exhibits. We met an artist named Vassilis Kyrkos who paints in multiple mediums and styles and uniquely captures the idyllic and timeless nature of Santorini. We picked up a small silk screen which depicts an early morning scene of Fira along the caldera. I treasure looking at this painting on my wall today and reminiscing not only of the friend we made that day, but of finding a kindred spirit who was able to paint the emotion and soul-searching depth that my heart felt during my time on the island.

Vassilis Kyrkos

We learned a few interesting things while on our travels such as every culture has their own version of hippies and that certain species are found only in certain places. In Oia I found this delightful little book shop that was built in an abandoned cave style house by a couple of Athens hippies who “wanted to get away from it all.” They had curated quite the collection of classic and contemporary literature from around the world in multiple languages. They even had a “reading room” which was really a tiny hole in the cave wall that you had two climb a few stories of scaffolding to get to. Anthropologie could get some new ideas for their window displays from their creative decor. Secondly, and maybe most importantly, there is a species of cat that is specifically found on Santorini. The isolation from other breeds has created a unique cat which is known for its round face, tiger striped tail, and white, orange, and black coat. You can even rent a cat for €5 a day from the book store boys!

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After spending a few hours lunching and resting in Oia, I wished we had known to stay there rather than in town. The peaceful, remote feel of the town made it difficult to head back to Fira at the end.

That night we set out on the only planned excursion of the trip: a romantic sunset cruise! Aboard a 17th century style pirate ship, we set off to tour the Volcano, submerge in luxurious hot springs, and sip wine and hors d’oeuvre while watching the sunset… except it wasn’t quite that awesome. We received a brochure and were allowed to walk through a few trails along the volcano by ourselves, the hot springs were merely a tepid bay near the volcano with rust-laden water, and the munchies consisted of a shot glass of cheap white wine (no food)… BUT THE SUNSET WAS AMAZING! So I guess it was still pretty worth it to enjoy a mediterranean sunset on a “pirate ship!”

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September 14, 2014:

We spent our last day in Santorini doing the beach thing and venturing over to Akrotiri and the red beach. Because of the cliffs, many of the beaches on Santorini are only accessible via a rough trek over rocks and cliffs or via a boat. Because of both the original island rock and volcanic sand, Santorini has three distinct beaches, the Red Beach, the Black Beach, and the White Beach, all named specifically after the color of the sand. While it is perfectly normal to be nude on these beaches, the majority of loungers were sporting bright colored suits.

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Before flying out of Santorini for our final destination, we took one more tour of Fira and got our fourth gyro and souvlaki (still the best we had on the whole trip) from some guys who owned this killer corner food shop off Martiou and Danezi M streets. If you see me in Austin one day opening my own food truck, I will probably be selling gyros copied unashamedly from them!

Last day in Santorini

A Mediterranean Excursion – part 2

Our most recent travels in September 2014 took us to the Mediterranean to explore four distinct yet exquisite locales: Istanbul, Turkey; Mykonos, Santorini, & Athens, Greece


September 10, 2014: The second leg of our journey took us to Mykonos, Greece, a small island with sandy beaches and quaint summer homes. Mykonos is known as the “party” island among locals as it is a fairly short ferry ride from Athens and surrounding islands making it the “Las Vegas” of the Agaean. Thank goodness we traveled during off season!

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We stayed at The Grand Beach hotel just outside of Mykonos town (or Chora) as the locals call it. The hotel looked like what you picture most grecian summer vacations to feel like – pure white stucco, bright blues and greens, and a view looking over the sea. After watching the sunset just after we arrived, we were treated to a private dinner hosted by the hotel chef, a young Greek chef who had recently apprenticed in a castle in Germany. We started with a traditional greek salad: cucumbers, green bell peppers, garden tomatoes, red onions, kalamata olives, and large wedges of feta cheese sprinkled with greek spices and drizzled with house-pressed olive oil (no leafy greens in a greek salad). It is common for each family in to have their own olive tree and to press their own olive oil every year. We split a large pork tenderloin with mashed potatoes for dinner and finished with a rich, creamy chocolate mousse for dessert! It’s hard to top garden fresh vegetables and decadent chocolate in my book!

September 11, 2014:

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Our first full day on the island, Mike and I spent the afternoon exploring; while there are cars and taxis on the island, the majority of transportation occurs on the backs of scooters or in our case, four-wheelers. The two most noted structures to visit include the Mykonos windmills and the abandoned light house. Both of these decrepit structures were interesting to see but were quite underwhelming compared to the vistas of Mykonos.

Mykonos

Mykonos

Mykonos

Mykonos

Our favorite discovery of the day was a hole-in-the-wall family owned restaurant called Mathio’s or Matthew’s Taverna. We only intended to stop for a light salad and glass of water but gave in to the recommendation of our waiter to indulge in the beef stew. We weren’t served a simple cup of beef stew, but rather a heaping plate of melt in your mouth, succulent beef roast served au jus with golden potatoes and hearty vegetables; I’m glad we only ordered one! That luncheon turned into a multi-course dining experience that I will likely never forget.

To cap off a very sun filled and relaxing day, we grabbed a bite “downtown” around the old port known as little venice. It’s quite a misnomer because there are only four or five little condos that line the water way and aren’t exactly accessible by boat… but it made for a nice picture. The beauty of Mykonos really came alive after the cruise ships and “tourists” were gone. Only a few non-natives lingered around the restaurants that evening and we were fortunate to enjoy a mile long shore line walk without other passersby.

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September 12, 2014: Our last morning was quite an eventful one. The transport gave us about ten minutes to rush and pack up to catch the ferry because they wanted to take us with another couple who was leaving “RIGHT NOW!” No big deal, I can cram a suit case and run; except they dropped us off at the wrong port… kind of. In Mykonos there are two ports, the old port and the new port, approximately a ten minute drive apart. The unfortunate problem is that they only have a ticket stand at the old port… After standing around looking kind of lost, Mike found a “taxi driver” aka a local guy looking for a few bucks to take us over to the old port to pick up our tickets from will-call. We waited around another twenty minutes looking for our ferry only to find out we needed to pay another “taxi driver” to take us back to the new port again where the ferry was just arriving. I’m not normally a conspiracy type, but it seemed like these “taxi drivers” knew what was up and were totally fine with “helping” the lost island hoppers out. Oh well, here’s to the joy one can find amid chaos!

Here are a few shots I snapped before the insanity erupted. Mind you, I might have chosen different shoes had I known the excitement to unfold over the next hours.

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The stress faded once we boarded because we remembered, next stop, Santorini!

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A Mediterranean Excursion – part 1

Our most recent travels in September 2014 took us to the Mediterranean to explore four distinct yet exquisite locales: Istanbul, Turkey; Mykonos, Santorini, & Athens, Greece



SeptemFlying outber 5, 2014: Flying out of George Bush Intercontinental Airport via Turkish Air

September 6, 2014: Finally! We checked into our cute boutique hotel, Hotel Lausos just in time for a hot shower and dinner on the street. We stumbled into a rather tourist-y restaurant district and tried our first turkish dishes. I wish I could remember what we ate, but at the very least I know we were thankful for full bellies and the experience of new flavors.

September 7, 2014: Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, Sultanahmet Square, Topkapi Palace.

Istanbul, Turkey

We were fortunate to have a hotel just blocks from Sultanahmet Square, the epicenter of the Old City which is home to the two most famous monuments to Istanbul: Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. These ancient megaliths rest only a few hundred yards from one another and symbolize both the political and religious  history of the region. When entering a mosque, it is required for all individuals to cover their shoulders to at least their knees, and women must also cover their head and neck. It was unique to see a cosmopolitan influence on the city as liberal turks and conservative muslims live side by side.Local Art Mural - Sultanahmet Square

This mural was painted by a local artist and depicts Sultanahmet Square. The center spire is an Egyptian Obelisk (The Obelisk of Theodosius) which was a trophy taken by a former Roman emperor to decorate the city of Istanbul during the Roman occupation.

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Topkapi Palace was the seat of the Ottoman Empire from the 14th to 19th century. It contained everything the royal family needed to live such as the harem (royal living quarters), kitchens, audience chambers, as well as inner and outer courts for the Sultan to conduct business.

View of the Golden Horn from inside Topkapi Palace:

Panorama of Bosphorus strait - Topkapi palace

September 8, 2014: Grand Bazaar, Istanbul University, and Spice Bazaar

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Open air restaurant - tea time - Spice BazaarI hTea time - Spice Bazaarad no idea what to expect from the Grand Bazaar… let’s just say I had envisioned a more Aladdin-esque open air market with dirt floors. I wasn’t disappointed in the brick-and-mortar shopping mall, just surprised. The bazaar is home to approximately 3,000 shops and employs up to 30,000 people. It’s divided into sections such as gold, silver, tourist collections, rugs & textiles, and clothing. The turks are known for their savvy negotiations and treat it like a sport. After the sale was complete, the shop owners loved to chat and practice their English; most were fluent in 4-5 languages!

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Unfortunately Istanbul University was under quite a bit of construction during our visit; however, we did enjoy a relaxing afternoon on the grounds observing the students pass by and resting in the shade.

As a self-proclaimed foodie… the Spice Bazaar was a wanna-be-chef’s dream! Turkish Delight, herbal tea, and of course, SPICES! Mounds and mounds of saffron, tarragon, and a plethora of other aromas to tantalize the senses. Cinnamon smelled richer; apple tea more fragrant! As I traversed the “Old Egypt Bazaar” I could sense the smells that wafted these halls for hundreds of years.

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I was fortunate to get to go to the Spice Bazaar twice during our stay in Istanbul. Mike and I had a budget for gifts and trinkets to take home and reminded me I had roughly $100 available to spend in Istanbul. Unfortunately, he forgot to keep enough turkish lira on hand for me to use on our last day! Let’s just say I’m quite the “negotiator” when I have only $20 to get everything I want.

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September 9, 2014: Dolmabache Palace (left), Taksim Square, Galata Tower (right)

Dolmabache PalaceLocal mural - Istanbul Galata Tower

This was probably one of the most exercise-filled days! We started at Dolmabache palace which comprises the historical Ottoman administration building as well as the residence of the contemporary sultans and their families (Think the White House times four!). I cannot begin to describe the size and magnificence of this edifice: the buildings line the Bosphorus strait and take up 11.2 acres including 285 rooms. It has multiple water gates where foreign dignitaries would be received from their ships. Ironically, the palace is exquisitely decorated only on the side which would be seen by the public; the back side of the palace is constructed of simple rose-colored stucco. Why spend the budget on “unseen” sections when you can really glorify the visible parts. I would love to share every tiny detail with you, but I suggest you check it out on this super credible website, or maybe this one.

The center photo is a mural we stumbled across during our wanderings; it depicts the story of how the Turks used to defend their city. The Turkish navy would hide their ships in the north along the Golden Horn and then tie an iron chain across the strait to prevent foreign navies from entering. The Sultan would then move his ships over dry land via a rolling plank system (as illustrated on the far right of the painting) into the Marmara sea to surprise the enemy. At Dolmabache Palace, the Sultan could sit in a glass viewing room to oversee his ships as they were transported past the palace. It worked for centuries, until modern warfare was discovered.

We spent the evening wandering around Taksim square and the adjacent streets. Taksim square is roughly similar to Time’s Square in NYC and rests at the top of a hill overlooking the surrounding city. It is a bustling urban “park” teeming with all of Istanbul’s people. After grabbing an “Italian” dinner, we walked down a pedestrian-only thoroughfare to check out Galata Tower (right photo).  The line was hours long to get inside, so I didn’t get to confirm whether Rapunzel lived there or not…

September 10, 2014: a boat cruise on the Bosphorus Strait prior to flying out to Mykonos, Greece

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